Double
Widowhood Part
Two
By
John Marles, Sylvan Lofts
I now realize that
there are very few principles in this sport to which you need to strictly
adhere. Be as innovative as you possibly can be and try to find out what works
for you. Our first race is generally the first week in May so I like to put them
together either the third or fourth week in February. I try to raise only one
youngster a nest so that the parents can save as much energy as possible. I have
read many, many different articles on whether to raise two, one or no
youngsters. As for me I favour rearing only a single young bird in each nest. As
soon as the youngsters reach about fifteen days old I start to take the hens
away. I do not let them lay their second round. Why? The first reason is because
it takes too much out of the hens. Second because doing so will start the moult.
For years I was told that in order for a pigeon to come into form he must have
moulted his first flight. Over the years I can not tell you how many races I
have won with birds that have not moulted their first flight. I have had pigeons
score in the third or fourth week of racing that still have not dropped a
flight.
While still on the
topic of mating up the birds, I would like to mention three small points that I
feel may be of benefit for those few who are new to our sport. Number one is
that prior to mating up the birds leave the lights on in the loft for about
eighteen hours each day. This will artificially activate the birds' hormones and
ensure that they lay quickly. Number two, three weeks prior to mating make sure
that you are giving the birds about a 16% protein ration and that the barley
content is reduced to 5 or 10%. The last point is to add 15% pellets to their
ration for the egg laying period. I feel that the riboflavin contained in
pellets greatly enhances the hatching of the chicks.
Next, I would like to
discuss how to get the birds physically right for racing. In the late seventies
and early eighties I seemed to have more time and ambition; therefore, I
exercised the birds throughout the winter months. They were definitely fit the
year round. Many people would look at them flying sometimes two to three hours
and say that they were in super form. These same people predicted that the super
form would not last. Nothing could be further from the truth. They were so fit
that they definitely had a huge advantage over the competitors going in to the
first few races. In those days I would not think twice about taking them up
forty miles for their first toss, then to sixty and once at eighty and their
road work would be completed. Three tosses and they were race ready; mind you
they were flying almost three hours a day. The other day, I was looking over
some old diaries from some thirteen years back and one year they only had two
tosses and still topped the Combine in the first few weeks of racing. I no
longer freeze outside during the winter months. Once the last race is completed
they are locked up until they have been sitting eggs for about eight to ten
days. As is my practice I will cut the food once the hens have laid. I attempt
to get the unwanted weight off the racers. Next, I choose an excellent day and I
try to allow them their first exercise early in the morning just in case I have
hawk problems. In 1994, I had tremendous hawk problems and therefore had to
re-evaluate what I knew about hawks. It seemed that everything I had read about
hawks went out the window as these hawks were not conforming to any kind of
rules. During the next few weeks I try to get them out as often as possible and
as soon as they land I quickly get them in. After three weeks of exercising them
they are ready to train. In the next issue I will outline the training schedule
I use, the feeding methods, medication and how I handle the hens. As always may
your next season be your best. Let's hope next year will be a kinder year for
all of the members in our sport.